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Title: 二次世界大戰(1945)後南台灣金工首飾工藝變遷
The transition of mentalwork in south Taiwan after World War II
Authors: 張家瑀
Chai-Yu Chang
Contributors: 應用設計研究所
Keywords: 金銀細工;傳統師徒制;金飾工藝史;台灣工藝;次世界大戰;價值觀;蒸汽機;製作業;特殊性
黃金;The transition of mental work;Taiwan craft;Gold;knowledge;marketing;system;taiwan;after
Date: 2006
Issue Date: 2011-05-26 10:39:50 (UTC+8)
Publisher: 高雄市:[樹德科技大學應用設計研究所]
Abstract: 金銀,自古就是世人的最愛,是財富的象徵,「打金仔師」的金雕銀塑技藝,也自然成為一門獨特的學問,而台灣的金銀細工也因時事以及時代的變遷呈現的是非常多元的樣貌。
台灣金銀細工在台灣傳統工藝之中一直被歸類於所謂的-「次要藝術」,一直不受重視,雖然現今因政府對文化創意產業的提倡下台灣金銀細工因被歸納於「台灣傳統工藝」因此市面上也漸漸出現了一些介紹本土珠寶首飾、金屬工藝的書籍、期刊,但內容卻大多是主要介紹、分析市面上流通商品的製作特色或談論現今以品牌為主要行銷方式的商品,但是金銀細工並不只是行銷與製作而已,其演進與改變,會隨著社會的變遷與民眾生活習性、政令的改變,乃至於社會的價值觀而牽動,因為金銀細工是一種特殊的生活工藝,因材質本身的高價值性以及其製作材質為黃金、銀貴金屬,皆為可進行價值交易的〝貨幣〞使得金銀細工成為雖是高價卻又貼近生活,這種矛盾的性格造成金銀細工的多樣與特殊性。
本文為「二次世界大戰後南台灣金工首飾工藝變遷」,研究方式以實證研究與理論研究互相搭配,訪談與文獻探究並行,主要內容為探究:社會風俗的變遷與民眾價值觀念的改變對傳統金銀細工造成的衝擊;二次世界大戰後台灣由戒嚴至今政府法令對金銀細工的影響;台灣金銀細工簡史;傳統打金師徒制度的體制、學習流程、升等程序的整理,三年四個月的學徒生涯,其中學徒如何成為師傅,與此制度隱含的倫理觀念與學習時的艱辛;以及社會資本觀念的興起對其傳統師徒制度的破壞;銀樓型態的改變,由看樣製作→工廠製作→注重行銷與品牌的經營方式,其中的過程與改變因素;以及對於金銀細工產業有重大影響的技術的出現,「機械雕花」-一種將購買金飾用品視為保值保值觀念下而盛行的金飾技術,「鑄模」-金銀細工製作業革命中的「蒸汽機」技術發明,這些技術對台灣金銀細工的革命。
old and silver have always been seen as the most precious, a simple of fortune, in the world. The mental work of the master naturally becomes a unique knowledge. And the mental work in Taiwan has been verified as the passing of time and changing of fashion. The mental work in Taiwan has always been classified as secondary art in the Traditional Taiwan Craft. It has been ignored though the government put it among the Craft category under the ad vocation of creative cultural business. Therefore there are some books or journals about Taiwan Jewelry Accessory and Mental Art. However the contents are mostly introducing and analyzing the features of the products from some famous brand. Nevertheless Mental Art is not only about making and marketing. The transition of this art is formed with the change if our society, the different habits of our citizens, the change of the policy, and the value system in our culture. Mental art is a very special living art, and the valuable of its material, gold and silver, is one of the current we can use as money. Its unique feature makes mental work very high-priced but also very close to our lives. This controversy feature makes Mental Work a diversified and special art.
This article is 「The transition of mental work in south Taiwan after World War II」, the research way is through the real diagnosis research and fundamental research on mutual tie-in sale, Picks and the literature research also carries on ,the content is:「Social custom vicissitude、populace value idea change To the transition influences.
The influence of the government’ law after World War Two、The mental work fine workmanship brief history、The Three years four month-long apprentice professions, how does apprentice become skilled worker, with time this system concealment ethics idea and study difficulty; As well as social capital idea starting to its traditional priests and disciples system destruction; The silver-goods shop condition change, by looking at a sample the manufacture -> factory manufacture ->marketing and brand ; As well as has the significant influence regarding The transition industries the technology appearance, ""the mechanical carving flower"" - one kind will purchase the gold ornament thing to regard as guarantees the value to guarantee the gold ornament technology which under the value idea will be in vogue, ""will cast a mold"" - the transition center ""the steam engine"" the technical invention.」These technologies to the transition of mental work significant influences.
Appears in Collections:[應用設計研究所] 博碩士論文

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