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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://ir.lib.stu.edu.tw:80/ir/handle/310903100/1577

Title: 上肢部位的機能性與胸圍尺寸變化關係之研究
A Study on the Relationship between Functionality of Upper parts and Changes in the Bust
Authors: 游佳娸
Yu Chia Chi
Contributors: Chen Chon yu
應用設計研究所
Keywords: 上肢部位;官能檢查;舒適性;機能性
upper parts;sensory test;comfortable;functionality
Date: 2008
Issue Date: 2011-05-26 10:39:11 (UTC+8)
Publisher: 高雄市:[樹德科技大學應用設計研究所]
Abstract: 本研究旨在針對日本新文化式婦女上衣原型製圖時,胸圍尺寸的增加與右肩寬及袖襱厚度等三個因素之間的關聯性進行探討,以及探討此三個因素是否對上肢部位的機能性有所影響。在研究方法方面,分為二階段:首先,依據2005年所量測樹德科技大學276位女大學生之上半身相關部位的計測值,進行統計分析,以相關分析、主成份分析及交叉表分析,判定此年代之女大學生上半身的體型狀況及胸圍尺寸與右肩寬及袖襱厚度等間的關係。再者,將胸圍尺寸與右肩寬及袖襱厚度,做上肢部位部製圖的組合假設,依胸圍尺寸88±2㎝~108±2㎝為範圍,分為6組,各9件樣衣,共54件。並且以各組3位受測者,共18位18~25歲之女大學生,進行上肢部位的官能檢查,評價各樣衣在穿著時的舒適性與機能性的滿意程度,並透過信度分析與MANOVA分析來驗證本研究假設之製圖法則。

研究結果發現, 2005年的女大學生在上半身的體型分類中,以屈身或駝背型居多。從相關分析結果可知,胸圍尺寸會影響袖襱厚度,有0.805的極高相關性。而胸圍尺寸對右肩寬的相關係數為0.103的低相關,表示胸圍尺寸與右肩寬無相互影響的關係。再者,從官能檢查在舒適性與機能性滿意度的評價分析結果可知,胸圍尺寸在88±2㎝的範圍裡,以右肩寬為11.5±0.5㎝,袖襱厚度為11.5±0.5㎝者為佳;胸圍尺寸在92±2㎝~104±2㎝的範圍裡,右肩寬的尺寸皆在12.5±0.5㎝的範圍內,A.H厚度的尺寸的變化,以1㎝間距在增加。再次證明胸圍尺寸會影響袖襱厚度,而不會影響右肩寬尺寸的理論,且在整體的官能檢查檢定結果得到83.4%的信賴度,表示本研究所假設上肢部位的製圖法則是可被採用的。
This study aims to discuss the correlation of an increase in the bust with the width of the shoulder length and the thickness of the armhole as well as the influence of the three factors upon functionality of upper parts regarding the prototype design of new Bunka-style bodice. This study adopts a two-stage research method. First of all, a statistic analysis is performed on measurement of the upper bodies of 276 female students of Shu-Te University measured in 2005, and this study determines the correlation of the upper body of female university students at that time and the bust with the width of the shoulder length and the thickness of the armhole by using correlation analysis, principal component analysis, and cross tabulation. Secondly, a hypothesis of a clothes design for upper parts is made based on the bust, the width of the shoulder length, and the thickness of the armhole. Based on the bust range of 88±2cm~108±2 cm, there are a total of six groups with nine samples each, totaling 54 samples. Moreover, each group has three subjects, totaling 18 female university students aged 18~25, tested for functionality of upper parts, in order to evaluate satisfaction with comfortable and functionality of samples. Also, this study uses reliability analysis and MANOVA analysis to verify the drawing principles hypothesized by this study.
According to research findings, the stooping or hunchbacked body type is the most common of the all body types of female university students collected in 2005. Inferred from the result of correlation analysis, the bust has an influence on the thickness of the armhole with significantly high correlation of 0.805. Yet, the bust has low correlation with the width of the shoulder length, with a correlation coefficient of 0.103, representing no interrelationship between the bust and the width of the shoulder length. Moreover, inferred from evaluation results of satisfaction with comfortable and functionality, within the bust range of 88±2 cm, the best result falls in the width of the shoulder length of 11.5±0.5 cm and the thickness of the armhole of 11.5±0.5 cm; within the bust range of 92±2 cm~104±2 cm, the best result falls in the width of the shoulder length of 12.5±0.5 cm, and the thickness of the armhole will increase by 1 cm one time. Inferred from the foregoing results, indeed the bust has an influence upon the thickness of the armhole, but not the width of the shoulder length. In addition, the overall sensory test shows a confidence level of 83.4%, representing that the drawing for upper parts hypothesized by this study is applicable.
Appears in Collections:[應用設計研究所] 博碩士論文

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